BERNINA #69 Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot: Rolled Hem How-To
By Colibri Sewing | Sewing & Quilting Supplies | Published: 2026-11-03
Category: 操作指南
Learn to set up and sew a 4 mm rolled hem or shell edge with the BERNINA #69 Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot, including overlock settings, fabric choices, and fixes for common mistakes.
Quick answer
Use the BERNINA #69 Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot with an overlock stitch to create a 4 mm double-fold hem or a shell edge on soft, stretchy, and lightweight fabrics. Set your serger for a narrow rolled hem, guide the fabric into the foot’s curl, and sew slowly while keeping the fold consistent.
What this foot does and when to choose it
The #69 foot is designed for double-fold hems using an overlock stitch, saving time compared with pressing and stitching a rolled hem in separate steps. It produces a finished hem width of 4 mm, which suits fine knits, chiffon, georgette, and other soft or stretch materials. The foot fits both 5.5 mm and 9 mm BERNINA machines, so you can use it across compatible models.
Choose the #69 when you want a clean, narrow hem with a professional finish on lightweight or stretchy fabrics. For heavier woven fabrics or wider hems, a different hemmer foot or a traditional pressed hem may be more appropriate. The foot is not intended for bulky fabrics or dramatic curves.
Set up your serger for a rolled hem
Before attaching the foot, convert your serger to a rolled hem by adjusting the stitch width, differential feed, and needle tension according to your machine’s manual. For a shell edge, reduce the stitch width further and adjust tension so the fabric edge curls gently. Always test on a scrap of the same fabric to fine-tune settings. The #69 foot does not change your serger’s settings; it only guides the fabric fold, so the stitch formation must be correct before you begin.
Step-by-step: sewing a rolled hem with the #69 foot
- Attach the foot and set your serger: Remove the standard presser foot and snap on the #69 Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot. Set your serger to a rolled hem stitch: typically a narrow stitch width, tightened needle tension, and adjusted differential feed. Check your manual for exact settings. Common mistake: forgetting to disengage the upper knife or change the stitch finger, which prevents the fabric from rolling. Always test on a scrap before sewing your garment.
- Prepare and position the fabric: Press the fabric edge if needed, then fold the raw edge under about 4 mm to start the roll. Insert the folded edge into the curl of the foot, ensuring the fold sits snugly against the metal guide. Lower the presser foot and take a few stitches by hand to anchor the fold. Common mistake: starting with too wide a fold, which jams the foot. Keep the fold narrow and even as you begin.
- Sew slowly and guide the fold: Sew at a slow, steady speed, letting the foot’s curl form the double fold. Use your left hand to gently feed the fabric into the curl while your right hand supports the fabric behind the foot. Do not pull the fabric; let the feed dogs move it. Common mistake: sewing too fast, which causes the fold to slip out of the curl. If the fold escapes, stop, re-insert it, and continue.
- Check the hem and adjust: After sewing a few inches, stop and inspect the hem: it should be uniform and flat with no tunneling. If the hem is wavy, loosen the needle tension slightly; if it is too loose, tighten it. For a shell edge, increase tension and reduce stitch width until the edge curls gently. Common mistake: ignoring small wrinkles, which compound over a long seam. Make adjustments on a scrap first, then apply to your project.
- Finish and press: Complete the hem, then press lightly with a cool iron to set the stitches without flattening the roll. For shell edges, use a pressing cloth and avoid steam. Common mistake: pressing too hard, which crushes the shell effect. Press gently to maintain the three-dimensional shape.
Product facts
- #69 BERNINA Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot: Creates double-fold hems using an overlock stitch with a 4 mm finished width. This fixed width suits fine, lightweight fabrics where a narrow, tidy hem is desired without bulk.
#69 BERNINA Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot - #69 BERNINA Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot: Fits 5.5 mm and 9 mm BERNINA machines. Check your machine’s compatibility before ordering; this foot works across both common BERNINA bed sizes.
- #69 BERNINA Roll and Shell Hemmer Foot: Designed for soft and stretch materials. The foot’s shaping works best on fabrics that drape and recover, such as knits and lightweight wovens.
