How to Use a Reverse Pattern Foot for Decorative Stitches
By Colibri Sewing | Sewing & Quilting Supplies | Published: 2026-10-20
Category: How-to Guides
Learn how to use a reverse pattern foot for decorative stitches, including setup, stitch alignment, and fabric handling tips for BERNINA #1C and #1D feet.
Quick answer
For even, professional decorative stitches on tricky fabrics like denim or wool, use a reverse pattern foot—either the #1C or #1D—so the fabric feeds consistently in both directions.
Why a reverse pattern foot matters for decorative stitches
Decorative stitches often require sewing forward and backward to create symmetrical patterns. A standard presser foot can cause fabric to shift or bunch when you change direction, especially on thick or textured materials. A reverse pattern foot is designed to maintain consistent feed in both directions, which keeps your stitch alignment precise.
The #1C and #1D reverse pattern feet both work on 9 mm BERNINA machines and are built for materials like cord, denim, and wool. The main difference is the opening size: the #1C has a wider opening, making it better for thicker cords or multiple layers, while the #1D is more compact for finer work. Choose based on your project's bulk.
Steps to use a reverse pattern foot
- Attach the reverse pattern foot: Turn off your machine, raise the presser foot lever, and snap the reverse pattern foot onto the shank. Ensure it clicks securely. A loose foot can cause skipped stitches or uneven feed.
- Select the right needle and thread: Choose a needle suited to your fabric (e.g., a denim needle for heavy fabrics) and a thread that matches your project. For decorative stitches, a slightly heavier thread can enhance visibility. Using the wrong needle can cause skipped stitches or fabric damage.
- Set your stitch and test on scrap: Select a decorative stitch on your machine. Sew a test on a scrap piece of the same fabric to check stitch length, width, and tension. Always test first; adjustments are easier before you start your project.
- Position fabric and start sewing: Place the fabric under the foot, lower the presser foot, and begin sewing slowly. Guide the fabric gently—let the foot do the feeding. Avoid pulling or pushing the fabric; this can distort the stitch pattern.
- Handle reverse sewing carefully: When the stitch pattern requires reverse feed, keep the fabric flat and avoid lifting the foot. The reverse pattern foot's design maintains even feed in both directions. If the fabric puckers, check the presser foot pressure or use a stabilizer.
- Finish and secure threads: After completing the decorative stitching, raise the presser foot, remove the fabric, and trim thread tails. Use a seam sealant or tie off threads if needed. Leaving long tails can cause unraveling; secure them properly.
Reverse pattern foot options
- #1C BERNINA Reverse-pattern Foot: The #1C reverse pattern foot is designed for forward and reverse-feed stitches and works on 9 mm machines. Its wider opening accommodates thicker cords and heavier fabrics, making it ideal for decorative stitching on denim or wool.
#1C BERNINA Reverse-pattern Foot - #1D BERNINA Reverse-pattern Foot: The #1D reverse pattern foot also supports forward and reverse-feed stitches and fits 9 mm machines. Its more compact design offers better visibility for fine decorative work on lighter materials.
#1D BERNINA Reverse-pattern Foot
